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Scotland Travel Guide

It may be a cliche, but nevertheless true that Scotland as a bit of something for everyone; from the historic city of Edinburgh to the glorious unspoiled peaks of the Cuillin Hills on the Isle of Skye, there truly is something to appeal to every taste. Here we give a very brief overview of the major Scottish regions. Use this as a starting place for planning your own Scotish travels. You won't get to it all; the Britain Express family hasn't managed to get to every corner of Scotland - yet - but there is sure to be something to appeal to you no matter what your tastes.

Travelling very roughly south to north ...

Scottish Borders

The lovely rolling hills and valleys just north of the English border feature some of the most beautiful countryside in Britain. The River Tweed is at the heart of the county. Famous as an angling river, the Tweed passes historic abbeys and stately homes as it wends its way to the sea. Here you will find the abbeys of Melrose, Kelso, and Dryburgh, where the tomb of novelist Sir Walter Scott lies in the shadow of the medieval walls.

Visit Scott's View, high on the hill above the abbey ruins; here Scott would look out over the countryside that he loved so well. On the banks of the Tweed is Floors Castle, built for the first Duke of Roxburghe by William Adam. In the grounds of the castle a holly tree marks the spot where King James II died in 1460 when a cannon exploded during his siege of the old castle. Borders >>

Lothian

Edinburgh

The capital of Scotland, and one of the most famous historic cities in the world. The core of old Edinburgh lies between two historic buildings; the royal palace of Holyrood, and Edinburgh Castle. Between the two monuments is the Royal Mile, a warren of winding lanes and historic buildings such as the where John Knox once lived. Here also is Edinburgh Cathedral, and more shops selling Scottish woollens and tartan regalia than you can imagine. Edinburgh is said to be one of the most haunted cities in Europe, and if you have the stomach for it you can join one of the popular ghost tours. Princes Street is the most famous thoroughfare in Scotland, where all the smart shops - and shoppers - can be found.

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Dumfries and Galloway

Famous as a gathering place for artists and fishermen (read Dorothy L Sayers book, Five Red Herrings), Dumfries and Galloway takes in the area south of Glasgow stretching from the Solway Firth to the Firth of Clyde. At the centre of the region is old city of Dumfries, famous for its association with Robbie Burns, who called it 'Maggie by the Banks o' Nith'.

Travel on to nearby Sweetheart Abbey, founded by Devorguilla Balliol, who also founded Balliol College, Oxford. When the good lady died in 1289 she was buried with the embalmed heart of her husband, in a silver casket. The picturesque fishing village of Kirkcudbright is famous as a centre of the arts, with schools of painting, weaving, and pottery. The Dumfries Forest Park covers 300 acres making it the largest forest park in Scotland, offering a wide range of outdoor activities for visitors. Dumfries and Galloway >>

Strathclyde

Glasgow

The largest city in Scotland, at the heart of the largest urban area in the country, Glasgow has a long history as a shipping and industrial centre. But in recent years Glasgow has done much to emphasize the arts and its architectural heritage. As a result there are now a range of excellent museums and galleries for visitors to enjoy.

Argyll and Bute

Eilean Donan Castle

Travel north from Glasgow along the west coast and you enter Argyll and Bute, a lovely region of sea lochs and coastal scenery mixed with high plateaus and haunting glens further inland. One of those glens is Glen Coe, famous as the site where the visiting Campbells massacred their hosts the MacDonalds in 1693. But Glen Coe offers far more than dreadful deeds to those who cross the high moors of Rannoch and descend the A87. This is one of the most spectacular nature reserves in Scotland, with superb walking to be had.

Travel west from Glen Coe to some of the most beautiful islands in Scotland. Here is Iona, where pilgrims come in their thousands to visit the shrine of St Columba. A modern monastery marks the site where missionaries from Ireland established the first Christian presence in the north of Britain in the 7th century. A short boat trip from Iona leads to Fingal's Cave on the isle of Staffa, where you can see fabulous rock formations carved by centuries of wind and water action. Further south is the hill fort of Dunadd, capital of the old 6th century kingdom of Dalraida, the first truly Scottish kingdom.

Ayrshire and Arran

An old legend tells that when God had finished making Scotland, a few bits and dbas were left in his(her?) mighty apron. God gave the apron a flick, and these fragments fell into the sea to form Argyll and Bute. Whatever its provenance, this one of the most spectacular regions in a country blessed in wonderful landscape. This is Burns Country; the poet Robbie Burns was born at Alloway, near Ayr, where the whitewashed cottage owned by his family can be visited. The Burns National Heritage Park is a starting place for visitors to explore the life and times of Scotland's most famous poet.

Travel to the Isle of Arran, which has been described as 'Scotland in Miniature', for here you will find both high peaks and lowland scenery enough for all to enjoy. Arran is a glorious island accessible by ferry from Ardrossan or Tarbert. Brodick Castle is the major recognisable attraction, but there are numerous prehistoric sites dotted about the island. Walkers come to enjoy the challenge of Goat Fell, the highest peak in western Scotland, or the Coast Way, a circular 60 mile route that follows the coast. A short ferry journey leads to Holy Island, where a Tibetan Buddhist community runs a Peace Centre open to all.

More about Strathclyde >>

Central Scotland

Fife

The 'Kingdom of Fife' is bounded on the north by the River Tay, on the south by the Forth, and in the east by the North Sea. The area is a study in contrasts; the inland, the countryside is given over largely to agriculture,  but the golden coastline is dubbed the 'Scottish Riviera' for its miles of sandy beaches. Visit the mecca of golf at St Andrews, a magnet for golfers the world over. Beyond the 'Royal and Ancient' golf club are the ruins of St Andrews Cathedral. Travel south to Perth, where you will find the palace of Scone, the very heart of Scottish nationalism. Here for centuries Scottish rulers were crowned on the Stone of Destiny (sometimes called the Stone of Scone).

Fife >>

Stirlingshire

The city of Stirling packs more history into a small space than anywhere in Scotland. The old city walls enclose an area rife with historic buildings. The most instantly striking aspect of Stirling is the high cliff upon which the old medieval castle looks out across the Forth river valley below the city. The castle was built in the 12th century, and over the years has been a royal palace and military fortress. A few steps below the castle gates is Argyll's Lodging, a beautifully preserved 17th century townhouse once owned by the Earl of Argyll. The old Church of the Holy Rude is one of the most few surviving medieval churches in Scotland. Here in the churchyard you can see a gravestone bearing the marks of musket balls received during the siege of Stirling in 1650. Across the wide plain formed by the River Forth is the Wallace Monument, dedicated to William Wallace, whose military exploits at the Battle of Stirling Bridge in 1296 raised the banner of Scottish nationalism.

The Trossachs

Loch Voil, Trossachs

Travel west and north from Stirling and you enter the Trossachs, a land of lochs and glens, deep valleys and striking peaks. This is Rob Roy country, the home of the 18th century outlaw who defied English and Scottish authorities alike. Rob Roy MacGregor's tomb is in the churchyard of the old ruined kirk at Balquhidder, but reminders of his life and exploits are to be found everywhere in these hills; from Factor's Island in Loch Katrine, where he hid a captured factor of the Duke of Argyll, to Rob Roy's View, overlooking Loch Lomond at the far western end of the Trossachs. Much of the region is contained within the Queen Elizabeth Forest Park, and walking trails abound.

But there's no need to stick to dry land; take the steam ship Sir Walter Scott for a journey down isolated Loch Katrine, or take a power launch from Port Menteith to Inchmahome Abbey, situated on an island in the middle of Lake Menteith - the only 'lake' in Scotland. Here the young Mary, Queen of Scots was brought for protection in 1547. Visit Callander, the largest town in the southern Trossachs, and a centre for outdoor activity, or Killin, the northern gateway to the region, where the picturesque town is built around the Falls of Dochart. On an island in the middle of the river is the ancient burial ground of Clan MacNab. There is so much more to see, but everywhere you look, it seems, you will find the ghost of Rob Roy MacGregor, for this is his country.  More about The Trossachs >>

Angus and Dundee

One of the loveliest areas in Scotland, set just south of the Grampian mountains, Angus contains some of Scotland's best castles. The most famous is fairytale Glamis Castle, former home of the Queen Mother. A royal residence since 1372, Glamis was used by Shakespeare as the setting for his play 'Macbeth'. The shores of Angus boast some of the best golf courses in Scotland, the most famous being Carnoustie, but beyond the links stretch miles of lovely sandy beaches. Inland from the shore there are secluded glens such as Glenisla, Glenesk, and Glen Clova.

More about Central Scotland >>

Grampian

Aberdeen and Grampian Highlands

The old 'Granite City' of Aberdeen is the capital of the Grampian region, and one of Scotland's major urban areas. In the days before oil was discovered in the North Sea, this region of Scotland depended on farming, fishing, and the textile industries. But these were but ways to feed and clothe the body, food for the soul and Scots spirit was distilled from barley. For this is whisky country, and there are distilleries offering a variety of regional drinks. Most distilleries offer visitor 'tasting tours'.

If you can still stand upright after visiting the distilleries, take in some of Grampian's castles. In no particular order are Cawdor Castle, Darnaway, Fyvie, Dunnottar, Kildrummy, and more. But if historic buildings aren't your cup of tea, er, whisky, why not take in the Highland Games at Braemar? Here you can see athletes competing in traditional Highland sports of strength and agility such as tossing the caber, and listen to traditional Scottish music. Nearby is Scotland's newset national park, The Cairngorms, which is building a reputation as a winter activity centre.

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Isle of Skye

Highlands

Isle of Skye and Lochalsh

Skye is known as the ‘Misty Isle’, a name seemingly custom made to attract tourists, as if the romance of the landscape and its history were not enough. Skye is famous for its association with Bonnie Prince Charlie, who fled here with the aide of Flora MacDonald, after the failure of his attempt to seize the crown in 1746. The Isle of Skye is a  paradise for walkers, with the greatest collection of Munros (peaks over 3000 feet) in Scotland. The scenery is spectacular, and the west coast in particular is noted for its splendid sunsets. On the mainland just south of the Skye Bridge at Dornie is Eilean Donan Castle, the most photographed and easily recognizable of of Scottish castles. This is one of the Britain Express family's favourite regions in the UK, and we can't recommend it highly enough. Isle of Skye Travel Guide >>

Outer Hebrides (Western Isles)

The term Western Isles applies loosely to islands off Scotland's west coast, but more accurately it takes in what is sometimes called The Outer Hebrides. The isles of Lewis and Harris are the largest islands in the group, which includes Bura, St Kilda, and more. Curiously, given their far northern location, the Western Isles are a haven for surfers, offering some of the best water activity locations in Britain, with mile after mile of white sandy beaches, especially on the west coast.

The most famous attraction in the Western Isles is the stone circle at Callanish (Calanais). Perhaps second only in archaeological importance to Stonehenge, Callanish is a fantastic prehistoric monument composed of radiating avenues of stones about a core central circle. The stones stand in a marvelous location above Loch Rog an Ear, and if you are fortunate enough to have watched the sun set beyond the loch and paint the stones with a golden light you will never forget it.

Sutherland

Sutherland bridges the gap between the capital of the Highlands, Inverness, and the far northern regions of Caithness, Orkney, and Shetland. Here there is lovely coastal scenery, but also large expanses of barren moorland. The most famous and memorable attraction is Dunrobin Castle, home of the Dukes of Sutherland. This striking Scottish baronial mansion was rebuilt on the bones of a 12th century house by Sir Charles Barry, architect of the Houses of Parliament. The castle is painted white, and can be seen for miles along the coast. The gardens here are spectacular, but no less spectacular is the monument to the first Duke of Sutherland which stands atop a tall hill above the castle. The Sutherland monument can be seen for miles around. It was erected by the Duchess of Sutherland in memory of her husband. Oh, how sweet is love ... well, it may take some of the gloss off this romantic gesture to realize that the first Duke, under no little influence of his loving spouse, was one of the most despised offenders during the Highland Clearances. Sutherland cleared hundreds of his tenants off his land to make room for sheep.

Caithness

The most northerly region of eastern Scotland takes in the very tip of mainland Scotland. The most famous Caithness location is probably John O'Groats, noted as the furthest northern settlement in the UK. Today there is little enough to do at John O'Groats, but just a few miles away is the Castle of Mey, the former home of the late Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother.  The Queen Mum bought Mey when it was due to be destroyed, and carefully restored it as a place where she could escape from the constant buzz and bustle of public life. Ferries leave from John O' Groats, Thurso, and Gills Bay for the Orkneys.

Loch Ness & Inverness

Sunset on Loch Ness

Loch Ness needs no introduction to a generation raised on tales of a mysterious monster living in the murky depths of Scotland's largest body of water. Is there a Loch Ness monster? Well, no one really knows for sure, but that is part if the fun visiting this lovely Highland loch. Loch Ness stretches from Fort Augustus at the south west almost to Inverness at the north east. There are two routes along the lake; the A82 along the northern shore is the most popular, but it can be crowded. The southern route, which is very narrow in places, travels along the shore through Foyers and its famous waterfall, past Whitebridge, where the single arch bridge built by the English General Wade to carry troops through the Highland glens still stands.

Cruises on Loch Ness leave from several points, most notable Fort Augustus, which fairly thrives on the Nessie legend. Also at Fort Augustus is the northern terminus of the Caledonian Canal, that astonishing engineering feat carried out by Thomas Telford to link Loch Ness to Fort William and the Atlantic beyond. Even today, crowds gather beside the canal lochs to watch as boats begin their arduous journey to the coast. Halfway along the northern shore of Loch Ness is Drumnadrochit, where the striking ruins of Castle Urquhart stand on the shores of the loch. A few miles north is Corrimony Chambered Cairn, one of the best preserved ancient burial mounds in Scotland. Travel just north of Corrimony to Glen Affric Forest Park, one of the prettiest of the Highland glens. Here, nature trails lead along the glen, and you can easily reach several striking waterfalls. Or just drive slowly along the narrow roads through some of the most spectacular scenery you are ever likely to encounter.

Just outside Inverness is the Culloden battlefield, where the dreams of Bonnie Prince Charlie ended in disaster. A modern visitor centre explains the causes of the conflict and how the battle unfolded. Just a few miles away is Fort George, a vast military fort built as part of the English attempt to control the Highlands after Culloden. Fort George was built with practicality in mind, but a more romantic note is struck by Cawdor Castle, where a live tree grows in the cellar of the medieval fortified house.

Road to the Isles

The route north from Glasgow through Glen Coe leads through the western glens of the Scottish Highlands to Fort William, at the foot of mighty Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Scotland. Perhaps Britain's most popular outdoor activity centre, Fort William lies at the eastern end of the spectacular 'Road to the Isles'; the route west to the Isle of Skye and the Western Isles (Outer Hebrides) beyond. The road leads pasty the terminus of the Caledonian Canal, which links the sea to Loch Ness many miles away, past the medieval ruins of Inverlochy Castle, to Glenfinnan, on the shores of Loch Shiel.

There, on the shores of the loch, stand not one, but two, of Scotland's most memorable icons. The Glenfinnan Monument, a striking pillar, rises on the shore of the loch, to mark the spot where Bonnie Prince Charlie called the Highland clans to his battle standard for the ill-fated attempt to take the crown from George II. Inland from the monument the Glenfinnan viaduct spans the glen, carrying the rail line from Fort William to Mallaig on the coast.

The Jacobite Steam Train takes regular journeys along the route in summer, and the sight of the steam-driven locomotive chugging across the viaduct is one of the most memorable sights in the Scottish Highlands. A few miles further along from Glenfinnan stands a lonely cairn marking the spot where Prince Charlie left the mainland of Scotland for the final time. The Road to the Isles twists and turns along the coast, sometimes running side by side with the rail line, to the port of Mallaig, where regular ferry service links the mainland to the Isle of Skye.

More about The Scottish Highlands >>

Ring of Brogar, Orkney

Orkney

It is both a blessing and a curse that Orkney lies so far north, off the beaten path for most tourists. A curse because it means so few make the effort to cross the narrow stretch of water separating Orkney from the Scottish mainland, and a blessing because it remains a largely unspoiled treasure trove of spectacular coastal scenery, evocative ancient monuments, and a haven for wildlife. Here are some of the finest and justifiably famous ancient monuments in the world, such as the Stones of Stenness and the Ring of Brogar (Brodgar).

Here is the Iron Age village of Skara Brae, hidden beneath a protective layer of sand for over a thousand years. Here is the Broch of Gurness, perhaps the best preserved broch in Scotland, and the massive chambered tomb of Midhowe, so large that it became known as the 'Ship of Death'. Here is the medieval cathedral of St Magnus in Kirkwall, where it is said the bones of the Viking martyr lie within a stone pillar. Beside the cathedral is the medieval Bishops Palace, and a few steps away, a ruined 16th century Earl's Palace. Here are chambered cairns, like Maes Howe, where the midwinter sun aligns perfectly with the entrance and sends a shaft of light inside the mound to strike the back wall of the inner chamber.

But Orkney is not just about the past; here is some of the finest unspoiled coastal scenery anywhere. Take a walk along the spectacular cliffs at Yesnaby, where sea stacks like The Castle showcase the power and beauty of nature. Or watch for seals sunning themselves on the rocks at Birsay. If you are a birdwatcher, you've landed in heaven; no matter where you turn there are opportunities to spy gulls, skuas, fulmars, kittiwakes, razorbills, guillemots, shags, sanpipers, turnstones,dunlin, and on, and on.

I put off visiting Orkney for several years after the Britain Express family moved to the UK. I wish I hadn't waited, and I can't wait to return.

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Shetlands

The most northerly part of Scotland, Shetland is a group of islands dotted about the largest island, Mainland. The most famous attraction is Jarlshof, one of the richest archaeological sites in Britain. Here, beside the abandoned Old House of Sumburgh, dubbed 'Jarlshof' by Sir Walter Scott, archaeologists have uncovered a site showing evidence of human occupation covering over 4000 years. Here built partly one atop the other are the remains of a neolithic settlement, a Bronze Age smithy, an Iron Age broch, a Norse longhouse, and a medieval farmhouse.

The most famous Shetland exports are woollen garments, and you can buy hand-knitted woollens direct from the weavers themselves. The landscape is superb. but come in mid-summer and you can enjoy it practically around the clock, as the sun seldom dips below the horizon. Or come for the traditional festival of Up Helly Aa, when a Norse galley is carried through the streets of the largest city, Lerwick, and consumed on a bonfire.

More about the Shetland Islands >>