All Saints Church, Lydd

All Saints Church, Lydd

All Saints Church, Lydd, is known as The Cathedral on the Marsh for its exceptional size and grandeur. The church stands on high ground in Romney Marsh and incorporates a 5th-century Romano-British basilica, making it among the oldest Christian churches in Britain. All Saints is the longest parish church in Kent, measuring 199 feet (61m). It also boasts one of the tallest church towers in the UK at 132 feet (40m).

History

The earliest structure on this site was erected in the 5th century. You can see evidence of this Romano-British building in the north-west corner of the present church. Look for the pair of rounded arches that are all that remains of a building laid out on a basilica plan, with three bays leading to an apse, with arcading on the north side and a large porch to the west.

Though most sources date this basilica structure to the Roman period, the official Historic England listing suggests a later Saxon date.

Romano-British basilica arches

Cardinal Wolsey

Most of the remaining structure dates to the thirteenth century, with the west tower being a much later addition, begun in the 15th century and completed in the Tudor period under the patronage of Cardinal Wolsey.

It is doubtful that Wolsey ever set foot inside All Saints Church; it was just one of numerous churches for which he held the living. A curate acted on his behalf and Wolsey kept the lion share of the tithes for himself.

During the late medieval period, Lydd church was a base for several local fraternities. These fraternities (the word is often translated as 'brotherhood') were associations of lay parishioners. Each fraternity, or guild, had its own patron saint and prayed at their own altar or before an image of their patron saint. At their zenith in the Tudor period, there were eleven fraternities active in all Saints Church.

Thomas Godfrey memorial, 1623

The church was extensively refurbished in the Georgian period, with a new arrangement of open pews making space to seat up to 1,000 worshippers at a time. Like many parish churches, All Saints was heavily 'restored' during the Victorian period.

All Saints was badly damaged by bombs during WWII and, as a result, much of the structure had to be rebuilt. The rebuilding swept away the Victorian restoration, giving the present church a distinct 13th-century Early English feel.

Astonishingly, no one was killed during the bomb attack, even though the organist was playing, two parishioners were pumping the organ bellows, and two soldiers were standing guard atop the church tower at the time.

Sir Walter de Menyl effigy

Highlights

I already mentioned the rounded arches in the north-west corner, the best-surviving part of the Romano-British basilica. Other historical highlights include a Georgian font, a painted royal coat of arms dated to 1732, and a wonderful collection of funerary brasses.

There are 17 brasses, many protected beneath the nave carpet but some displayed on the north wall. These cover the period from 1557-1616 and are well worth a closer look because they portray in minute detail the fashions worn by wealthier residents of Lydd during this period.

The most interesting brasses are those of Thomas and Malyn Harte, who died in 1557 and 1555 respectively. Thomas Harte established the Harte's Farm Charity, which still provides a small amount of money annually to the town.

The most striking memorial is a painted bust of Thomas Godfrey, dated to 1623. Above the bust are the arms of Godfrey's three wives. Curiously, the epitaph begins in the centre of the chancel floor and climbs the wall to finish beneath Godfrey's bust.

Thomas Harte brass, 1557

The Captain Cook Connection

In the north chapel is an ornately carved effigy of a crusading knight, thought to be Sir Walter de Menyl. Nearby is the gravestone of Thomas Edgar, who sailed with Captain Cook and died in 1779. This stone formerly stood in the churchyard but was later brought inside the church.

Also in the chapel is the table tomb of Clement Stuppeny. This tomb was the focal point for local elections. The electors of Lydd would assemble around the tomb on St Mary Magdalene's Day (22 July) and select the Bailiff and Jurats (Magistrates) from amongst their number. This practise continued until 1885 when the bailiff became the first mayor of Lydd.

Against the wall are carved panels from a 15th-centry wooden rood screen.

The Clement Stuppeny table tomb

At the eastern end of the south aisle is a rare double piscina, while just inside the west door is a beautifully carved wall tablet to Anne Russell (d. 1780), carved by John Flaxman, a leading Neoclassical sculptor. Almost directly opposite is a painting showing All Saints after it had been hit by bombs during WWII.

In the churchyard are graves to sailors who perished off the Kent coast. The oldest tomb is to a member of the Strugell family and dates to 1551.

Visiting

All Saints was open when we visited and, as far as we are aware, is regularly open to visitors. Do take the time to explore the town, which is full of historical interest.