Upper Swell, St Mary's Church

St Mary's Church, Uppper Swell

The little 12th-century parish church in Upper Swell, Gloucestershire is tucked away from prying eyes, hidden behind a high, green hedge and neighbouring buildings, almost invisible to passers-by.

Historical Highlights

• Early 15th-century porch
• Norman south doorway with chevron decoration
• 15th century nave roof
• 12th-century Norman chancel arch
• Medieval pillar piscina, sedilia, and aumbry
• Marble wall monument to Rev. Henry Brown (d.1795)
• 15th century octagonal font

12th-century doorway arch

History

The story of St Mary's Church begins in AD 701, when King Ethelred of Mercia gave lands here to the Bishop of Worcester to support the new abbey in Evesham. Five years later, in AD 706, a priest recorded as Walter gave land in 'Overswelle' (Upper Swell) to the abbey.

The first church would have been erected at that time, neighbouring the manse, or manor house. Both buildings would have been built of timber, and no trace of either building remains.

The 15th-century font

A grant by King Offa of Mercia in AD 779 confirmed Evesham Abbey as the owner of church lands, and the Domesday Book of 1086 recorded a priest in Upper Swell, so we can presume that a church stood here at that time.

St Mary's church was rebuilt in stone during the Norman period, and the earliest parts of the building date to the 12th century.

The church interior

What to See

The highlight of these Norman features is the south doorway, carved with chevrons and featuring a worn tympanum over the door. The stone floor is original, as are the narrow lancet windows in the chancel. The chancel arch is Norman, but has quite obviously been restored, and a 13th-century window in Early English style is set into the north nave wall.

The style of carving on the south doorway and the chancel arch is similar, suggesting that they were both created at the same time, probably in the late 12th century.

The chancel features a 14th-century piscina, sedilia, and ambry niche set into the east wall. At the west end of the nave is a richly carved 15th-century octagonal font. The font retains its lead lining and you can see centuries worth of graffiti scraped into the soft lead.

Reverend Henry Brown memorial, 1795

Memorials

High up on the chancel wall is a memorial to John Chamberlayne of Upper Swell Manor (d. 1668). The memorial was erected by his sister, Maria Oldisworth. The Chamberlayne family gave the two bells that still hang in the bellcote over the west gable.

Also in the chancel is a memorial to Reverend Henry Brown, who served as the rector of Upper swell and died in 1795 age 80 years of age.

John Chamberlayne memorial, 1668

Set into the floor of the dais that holds the communion table are four small memorial plaques. The oldest is in memory of Reverend Samuel Marshall, who died in 1711. Another tablet strikes a tragic note; it remembers two children of the Wilton family who died young; William Wilton in 1797 at 5 months old and Eliza Wilton, who died in 1804 at just 3 months of age.

In the nave floor is a tablet in memory of Thomas Pitman, who died in 1800.

The nave roof, now whitewashed, likely dates to the 15th century, as does the south porch.

The restored chancel arch

Visiting

I've lived within a few miles of Upper Swell for 20 years and had no idea that this delightful country church was hidden away behind a screen of neighbouring buildings and a high hedge.

There is no parking area and no pedestrian pavement, so access is always going to be an issue. If you arrive by car, you really have only two choices; one is to park in a lay-by on the Stow-on-th-Wold side of the bridge across the River Dikler. In that case, you have to cross the bridge and start up the road, which can be tricky due to traffic.

14th-century piscina

Your other option, the one we took, is to drive over the bridge and up the hill, then turn off the B4077 onto the lane to Lower Swell. There is an unofficial lay-by immediately after the turning with space for 1-2 vehicles. From here, walk down the road, taking care to watch for traffic.

You will see a white gate on your left before you reach Manor Farm Cottage. To the right of this gate a short rise takes you to a metal gate that gives access to the churchyard.

Please be careful, as traffic can be heavy on the B4077 and there is no provision for pedestrians. That said, it is well worth seeking out this pleasant little church, in an idyllic setting beside the 17th-century manor house.

The church was open when we visited.